Tarkine Wilderness with Button Grass |
Wilderness is a place where human
beings are transitory; where there is little if any sign of the existence of
people, where if the modern world ended you wouldn’t notice. There are no
roads, no signs, and in the strictest sense, no permanent walking tracks. It is an ecological benchmark for nature
untrammelled by man and unaltered by the modern world. It’s not about scenery
or about any human aspiration. It is nature for nature’s sake – solely and
unapologetically.
Unsurprisingly there isn’t much of
it left. Further, the baseline for what is considered ‘wilderness’ keeps
diluting. I cringe when I watch BBC documentaries where people enthusiastically
describe, for example, the Scottish highlands as ‘pristine wilderness’. That
land has been logged, cleared, grazed, farmed, fought over, stolen, bled for
and owned for a thousand years. In my native Britain ,
if you can’t hear traffic – its wilderness!
Most people can’t see the use of
wilderness. That’s because it doesn’t have a “use”. It’s a bit like justifying
the “use” of happiness, beauty, love, truth, spirituality, or anything really
important. It may be useful but it doesn’t exist to be useful, it just is.
This brings us to a recent
suggestion that we build a road bisecting the South West National Park/World
Heritage area and charge people $300 a day to drive down it. After all, there’s
a lot of space out there going to waste. The Groom Liberal government has
already done the same thing through the Tarkine wilderness but there is no toll
(and if there was it would still never pay for the cost of road construction).
It’s an obviously nutty idea it but
does betray a desire for greater access to, and profit from, our wild
lands. There is a limit to how much
people will sacrifice for nature without getting tangible returns. There is a
long term risk of ‘roll back’ if the green movement remains puritanical. The
answer I think is quite simple.
Think of wilderness as a series of
concentric circles. The closer to the centre you are the less sign there is of
human existence. On the periphery you have scenic drives, short interpretive
walks, lodges, boat ramps, scenic railways, picnic facilities and camp grounds.
You might even have hotel accommodation that blends reasonably well with its
environment (not concrete and glass with big car parks and golf courses).
Further in you have well constructed walking tracks, toilets, shacks, and
elsewhere, four wheel drive trails. Deeper in you have nothing at all. You raft
or walk through but you take everything with you, and you do so at your own
risk.
In Tasmania
there is significant scope for investment in infrastructure to support nature
based experiences around our wilderness areas without trashing the centre.
Unfortunately there has been a history of inappropriate development proposals
by people who don’t ‘get’ wilderness and don’t understand Tasmania .
On the other side you have an anti development lobby that is paranoid about
incremental loss of wild lands to uncontrolled development and reactively
oppose anything that they see as infringing. This is partly because of a history where conservatives vandalise wilderness then claim that because its values are degraded it is no longer worthy of protection.
It would be very helpful if
government opened a meaningful dialogue with environmental NGOs about
developing a formal wilderness development policy based on the above
principles. This might include for example, guidelines about the types of
buildings and construction materials that are appropriate on the edge of our
wild lands.
There is simply no reason why for
example we couldn’t have small scale chalet style accommodation at the southern
edge of Lake St Claire where the old HEC pump house is, or re-build the hotel
at the Springs on Mt Wellington, or have a Mt Wellington cable car, or
have a small development at the end of the Donough’s Hill track overlooking the
Franklin River on the way to Queenstown. These things are not going to destroy
the wilderness but they will connect people with it. Those who are able and
willing to walk for 21 days unassisted through the South West still can; and
they will be more likely to have a job when they get home. If we can put wedge
politics aside we can move forward on these issues, but we can only do so
meaningfully if we truly appreciate what we have. What we have is amazing. I
attach a handful of photographs for reference.
Tasmanian Wilderness - a gentler way to travel |
Ecotourism in Old Growth Forest |
Tarkine Wilderness Lodge - development's sensitive side |
Open Cut Mining - development's insensitive side |
A Longer View |